Summer Squash and Mushroom Tacos
Red Cabbage–Stuffed Enchiladas Verde
Acorn Squash “Fondue”
Red Lentils and Quinoa
Brown Rice with Spinach, Cashews, and Sunflower Seeds
Roasted Zucchini Lasagna
Eggplant Meatballs with Marinara Sauce
Sweet Potato–Millet Burgers
Portobello Steak-Frites with Sweet Potatoes
Cheesy Eggplant Parmesan
Baked Falafel with Tangy Yogurt Sauce
I’ve amped up my vegetable-centric main dishes since I moved down the street from my sister’s family—home of three vegetarians. Whenever we have big family meals, I always have a protein-rich and substantially vegetable-driven plate on the table. Roasted squash, mushrooms, ever-adaptable eggplant, and beans and legumes are many of my trusty friends when it comes to offering healthy and nutritious meals that leave out the meat. Even nonvegetarians appreciate a substantial meatless plate, one that places vegetables, grains, and beans at center stage.
Since meat usually is the most expensive component of a meal, going meatless at least one day a week is also excellent relief for your wallet. The challenge is to create a meat-free meal that leaves meat lovers satisfied. I believe the key is in offering lots of flavor and texture contrasts. If you make each bite interesting, people find it impossible to resist going back for more.
Summer Squash and Mushroom Tacos
SUMMER SQUASH AND MUSHROOM TACOS
SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME 20 MINUTES COOKING TIME 25 MINUTES
A tempting picture of a squash taco on the side of a food truck inspired me to create my version of the vegetarian taco. Meaty roasted mushrooms, sweet roasted squash, and a caramelized roasted onion make up the bulk of this taco, with spicy-tangy braised kale as a topper. I often make the components ahead of time, so that for dinner all I have to do is warm up the tortillas.
FOR THE ROASTED VEGETABLES
1 medium yellow summer squash, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 portobello mushroom caps, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
FOR THE KALE TOPPING
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1 bunch curly kale, tough ribs removed and leaves roughly chopped
¼ cup low-sodium vegetable broth
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
FOR THE TACOS
8 6-inch corn tortillas, warmed
½ cup crumbled cotija cheese
1To make the roasted vegetables: Preheat the oven to 400°F. On a rimmed baking sheet arrange the squash, zucchini, mushrooms, and onion. Drizzle with the olive oil, then toss to combine, adding ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper. Roast the vegetables until just tender, about 10 minutes.
2To make the kale topping: In a large skillet, combine the olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the kale and cook, stirring occasionally, until it wilts, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the broth, cover the skillet, and cook the kale until tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and ¼ teaspoon of black pepper. Turn off the heat and set aside.
3To assemble the tacos: Place the tortillas on a work surface and add some of the vegetable filling and kale topping. Sprinkle each with cotija cheese, fold, and serve.
PER SERVING: Calories 278 / Protein 9g / Dietary Fiber 7g / Sugars 6g / Total Fat 11g
SALSA TIPS, TRICKS, AND SHORTCUTS
Homemade salsa is a real treat, but if you don’t have time to make a batch, just add a freshly prepared ingredient to perk up your favorite store-bought brand. Here are some ideas to get you going.
To jarred salsa verde (tomatillo salsa), tomato salsa, or pico de gallo, add:
• Charred corn kernels (char under the broiler or on a grill)
• Fresh cilantro or basil
• Chopped cucumber
• Chopped ripe peaches or nectarines
• Halved grape tomatoes or quartered cherry tomatoes
• Chopped cabbage kimchi
• Diced pineapple
• Finely chopped charred jalapeño peppers
• Roasted red peppers
Instead of making the from-scratch tomatillo sauce opposite, blend a jar of store-bought tomatillo salsa (check the ingredient label to make sure it’s not packed with salt) with the cilantro and broth. Since jarred salsa can already be fairly loose, start by adding half the broth, then blend in more for a thinner consistency, if needed. This is a great strategy for freshening up a jar of tomato salsa, too. Fresh herbs like cilantro and basil, fresh jalapeño peppers, or red Fresno chiles, chopped scallions, cucumbers, ripe tomatoes, grilled corn, and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice work wonders!
P.S.: Even just a squeeze of fresh lime or lemon juice can make a big difference!
Red Cabbage–Stuffed Enchiladas Verde
RED CABBAGE–STUFFED ENCHILADAS VERDE
SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME 40 MINUTES COOKING TIME 1 HOUR
Most enchiladas are weighted down with loads of cheese, but not these. By using crumbly, salty cotija Mexican cheese as an accent sprinkled over the finished enchiladas, you still get the satisfaction that comes from its richness while curbing the fat count. And instead of a stuffing of cheese or meat, this caramelized red cabbage cooked with cumin and coriander provides a complexly flavored and nutritious filling. These are also excellent stuffed with the squash and mushroom taco filling.
FOR THE PICKLED RED ONION
½ cup red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ large red onion, thinly sliced
FOR THE TOMATILLO SAUCE
1¼ pounds tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 jalapeño pepper, quartered lengthwise (remove seeds for less heat)
1½ teaspoons canola oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups fresh cilantro leaves
1¼ cups low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth, warmed
FOR THE CABBAGE FILLING
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ large red onion, thinly sliced
½ small red cabbage, halved and thinly sliced crosswise (3½ cups)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Juice of 1 lime
FOR ASSEMBLING THE ENCHILADAS
Eight 6-inch corn tortillas, warmed
¼ cup crumbled cotija cheese (or ricotta salata or feta; optional)
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1To pickle the red onion: Heat the vinegar, sugar, and salt together in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until the sugar and salt are dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion, stir to combine, turn off the heat, and set aside. Once the onion cools, refrigerate in an airtight container (the pickled onions are best served chilled).
2To make the tomatillo sauce: Preheat the oven to 400°F. On a rimmed baking sheet, arrange the tomatillos, garlic, onion, jalapeño, canola oil, and salt. Toss to combine and roast until the tomatillos are golden and juicy, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, cool for 10 minutes, then transfer to a blender. Add the cilantro and broth and purée. Leave the oven on.
3To make the cabbage filling: To a large nonstick skillet add the canola oil, cumin seeds, coriander, cinnamon stick, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the cumin seeds are golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens and the edges begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the cabbage and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is completely wilted, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and a splash of water, stirring and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. (Remove and discard the cinnamon stick.)
4To assemble the enchiladas: Pour ½ cup of the tomatillo sauce into the bottom of an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish. Place a warm tortilla on a work surface and add ¼ cup of the cabbage filling, then roll to enclose. Set the tortilla in the pan with the seam side down. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and cabbage. Spoon some of the remaining tomatillo sauce over the tortillas, using the back of a spoon to spread it evenly. (Make sure the enchiladas are well coated with sauce to keep them moist during baking.) Bake the enchiladas until they are warmed through, about 20 minutes. Remove the enchiladas from the oven and sprinkle with the crumbled cheese (if using) and cilantro. Serve hot with drained, pickled red onions on the side.
PER SERVING: Calories 290 / Protein 8g / Dietary Fiber 9g / Sugars 10g / Total Fat 10g
Acorn Squash “Fondue”
ACORN SQUASH “FONDUE”
SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME 1 HOUR, 10 MINUTES
On special occasions my husband and I used to visit our favorite fondue restaurant near our apartment in Paris (the restaurant was aptly named Pain, Vin, Fromage, or “Bread, Wine, Cheese”). As a way to share that Parisian fondue magic with my family, I’ve given it a much healthier twist by making it in an acorn squash! The squash both contains the cheese-bread filling and blends with it, providing a wonderfully creamy sweetness. Plus, it’s just so pretty to serve this “fondue” in the squash halves. Offer it to your guests on a holiday or special occasion.
2 acorn squash, halved, seeded, and fibers removed
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 large garlic clove, very finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
½ cup shredded Gruyère cheese
2 slices white whole wheat bread, lightly toasted and cut into ½-inch cubes
¾ cup whole milk
Pear slices (optional)
1Preheat the oven to 350°F. Sprinkle the squash halves with the salt and pepper, then use a basting brush to coat the squash with the mustard. Sprinkle the garlic in the squash halves, spreading it around as best you can.
2Divide half the cheese among the 4 squash halves (1 tablespoon each) and then top with the bread cubes. Sprinkle on the remaining cheese and then pour the milk over the bread, dividing it evenly among the squash halves. Gently press the bread cubes into the milk to make sure they are all saturated.
3Place the squash halves in a baking dish or on a rimmed baking sheet and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 40 minutes, then remove the foil and continue to bake until the filling is golden brown and the squash is tender, about 30 minutes more.
4Serve one squash half to each person, with pear slices on the side for dipping, if desired. Be sure everyone scoops up some of the filling and squash in each bite.
PER SERVING: Calories 206 / Protein 9g / Dietary Fiber 4g / Sugars 8g / Total Fat 7g
KITCHEN STRATEGY
Acorn Squash Tips
To make the squash easier to cut in half, microwave the uncut squash for 2 to 3 minutes; this softens the outer flesh just enough to make the knife go through more easily. Then, to stabilize the squash halves so they stand up straight, slice off a very thin piece from the rounded bottoms.
RED LENTILS AND QUINOA
SERVES 6 PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME 40 MINUTES
Lentils are a real superfood: one cup of cooked lentils offers 18 grams of protein and 16 grams of fiber—wow! They are easy to buy and store in the pantry, they have a very long shelf life (they’re best used within a year of purchasing), and they are incredibly economical. In this recipe, red lentils are cooked until soft and saucelike, and then they are spooned over fluffy quinoa. If you’re looking for a change of pace from beans and rice, you’ve found it.
FOR THE LENTILS
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
1 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cup red lentils, rinsed well
FOR THE QUINOA
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
1 cup red quinoa, rinsed well under cold water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1To make the lentils: Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft, about 7 minutes.
2Stir in the ginger, salt, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and cardamom and cook for 1 minute. Add the lentils and 2 cups water to the saucepan. Increase the heat to high and bring the lentils to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the saucepan, and simmer the lentils until they are very soft and have somewhat lost their shape, about 30 minutes.
3To make the quinoa: Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan or medium pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and quinoa and cook, stirring often, until the quinoa is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes.
4Stir in 1½ cups water and the salt, increase the heat to high, and bring the quinoa to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the liquid is completely absorbed and the quinoa uncoils, about 20 minutes. Fluff the quinoa with a fork.
5Serve the lentils over the quinoa, sprinkled with parsley.
PER SERVING: Calories 237 / Protein 12g / Dietary Fiber 7g / Sugars 3g / Total Fat 3g
BROWN RICE WITH SPINACH, CASHEWS, AND SUNFLOWER SEEDS
SERVES 6 PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME NONE
Brown rice is a staple in my pantry; it’s an inexpensive way to round out a plate whether you’re serving chicken breasts, vegetables, or a stir-fry. I usually make extra rice (cook once; eat twice!) and turn the leftovers into a second dish, like this one. Keep in the fridge for those busy days when family members are coming and going on their own schedules. Nuts and seeds are healthy sources of protein and fat, which will give everyone steady energy. If you’re hosting meat eaters, serve this with some grilled chicken or lean steak on the side.
2 cups cooked long-grain brown rice, cold or at room temperature
1½ tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed
1 teaspoon grainy Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more if needed
½ teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more if needed
2 scallions (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced
½ cup roasted cashews, roughly chopped
¼ cup toasted sunflower seeds
4 cups loosely packed baby spinach leaves, coarsely chopped
1Place the rice in a medium bowl and use a fork to fluff it.
2Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Pour over the rice and stir to combine.
3Stir in the scallions, cashews, and sunflower seeds. Taste and add more salt or pepper and lemon juice, if needed.
PER SERVING: Calories 215 / Protein 5g / Dietary Fiber 3g / Sugars 1g / Total Fat 12g
Roasted Zucchini Lasagna
ROASTED ZUCCHINI LASAGNA
SERVES 6 PREPARATION TIME 35 MINUTES COOKING TIME 40 MINUTES
In this play on lasagna, strips of zucchini stand in for the lasagna noodles and a fresh tomato salad is piled on top of the casserole in place of the tomato sauce. I also use tofu and part-skim ricotta as a way to bump up the protein content without losing all the decadence that comes with the cheese. This is exactly the kind of dish I love making in the summer, when vegetables are cheap and plentiful. Any kind of roasted vegetable can be layered into the mix too, so use what you have on hand—I’ve added sweet summer corn, chopped spinach, and sautéed mushrooms.
FOR THE VEGETABLES
3 8-inch-long zucchini (about 2¾ pounds), ends removed and zucchini sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick strips (you should have 15 to 20 strips)
4 teaspoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 medium red bell peppers, halved, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced
FOR THE TOFU-RICOTTA FILLING
8 ounces firm tofu, crumbled (about 1 cup)
½ cup part-skim ricotta cheese
Zest of 1 lemon (juice the lemon for the tomato topping)
2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves
FOR THE TOMATO TOPPING
2 ripe medium tomatoes, cored and finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
FOR ASSEMBLING THE LASAGNA
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 tablespoons finely grated pecorino cheese
1To make the vegetables: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and add the zucchini, 2 teaspoons of the olive oil, and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Toss to combine, then lay the zucchini strips flat. On another rimmed baking sheet (or a large baking dish), place the bell peppers and onion, the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil, and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Roast the vegetables until the ends are lightly browned, about 20 minutes, turning over the zucchini strips and stirring the peppers and onion midway through roasting. Set aside the vegetables to cool. Leave the oven on.
2To make the tofu-ricotta filling: In a medium bowl, stir together the tofu, ricotta, lemon zest, garlic, salt, and pepper. Then stir in the chopped basil.
3To make the tomato topping: In a small bowl, stir together the chopped tomatoes, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
4To assemble the lasagna: Spread the olive oil in an 8-inch square baking dish. Layer in about 6 strips of zucchini, overlapping them slightly. Dollop the zucchini with half of the tofu-ricotta mixture, then sprinkle with half the roasted peppers and onion. Add another layer of zucchini, slightly pressing down on the zucchini to compact the mixture. Repeat once, finishing the lasagna with a third layer of zucchini.
5Cover the zucchini with the tomato topping and sprinkle with the pecorino cheese. Bake for 15 minutes, then turn the oven to broil and continue to cook the lasagna until the tomato topping starts to brown around the edges, 4 to 5 minutes longer (watch the topping closely, as broiler intensities vary). Remove from the oven and cool for 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
PER SERVING: Calories 181 / Protein 11g / Dietary Fiber 4g / Sugars 6g / Total Fat 11g
ENTERTAINING STRATEGY
A Rainbow of Tomatoes
Heirloom tomatoes seem to come in every shade of the rainbow—green, yellow, pink, purple, red, even striped. When tomatoes are plentiful and in season, try using these less-common varieties of tomatoes (some of my favorite heirlooms are Green Zebra, Cherokee Purple, and Brandywine); the different shades will make for a showstopping presentation.
EGGPLANT MEATBALLS WITH MARINARA SAUCE
SERVES 4 (16 meatballs) PREPARATION TIME 25 MINUTES
COOKING TIME 1 HOUR, 10 MINUTES (plus 20 minutes to cool)
Who says meatballs have to have meat? After roasting, eggplant takes on a meaty, hearty flavor that is an excellent foundation for “meatballs.” I have one more twist up my sleeve, though: I add some smashed white beans for texture and an extra boost of protein. Pair these meatballs with your favorite marinara sauce.
1 large eggplant (about 12 ounces)
1 large egg, lightly beaten
½ cup cooked white beans, such as cannellini or navy (homemade; or canned, rinsed), smashed with a fork
1 large garlic clove, very finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
½ cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves or flat-leaf parsley
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling (optional)
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup panko-style bread crumbs (preferably whole wheat)
Olive oil mister or nonstick pan spray
2 cups marinara sauce (homemade or store-bought)
1Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and place the eggplant on top. Use a fork to prick the eggplant 4 times, then place the eggplant in the oven and roast it until it has completely collapsed and a paring knife easily slips into the center, 40 to 50 minutes. Cool the eggplant for 20 minutes. Leave the oven on.
2Slice the eggplant in half lengthwise and use a spoon to scoop out the flesh (discard the skin). Place the roasted eggplant in a medium bowl and stir in the egg and beans. Add the garlic, basil, ½ cup Parmesan cheese, the salt, and pepper and stir to combine, then mix in the bread crumbs.
3Again, line the rimmed baking sheet with a sheet of aluminum foil and lightly mist it with olive oil or nonstick pan spray. Shape the eggplant mixture into balls about the size of a golf ball (you should get about 16). Place them on the prepared baking sheet and lightly mist the top of the balls with spray. Bake the eggplant balls until they are golden-brown and firm, about 20 minutes.
4While the meatballs cook, warm the marinara sauce in a small saucepan. Remove the meatballs from the oven, sprinkle with a little extra Parmesan, if desired, and serve with the marinara sauce.
PER SERVING: Calories 304 / Protein 14g / Dietary Fiber 10g / Sugars 14g / Total Fat 11g
SWEET POTATO–MILLET BURGERS
MAKES 4 burgers PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes COOKING TIME 50 MINUTES
Let’s be honest here: a vegetable and grain–based burger is never going to really taste like a good old-fashioned beef burger. It can, however, be delicious in its own right. In this burger, millet is the nutrient powerhouse, while the sweet potatoes add body and the green chiles, cumin, and paprika add a Southwestern kick. Millet is extremely good for you, offering fiber, iron, and the B vitamins that are so important for vegetarians. These burgers are excellent reheated for lunch or even wrapped in plastic and stashed in the freezer for a rainy-day meal. I’ve included options for both pan-searing the burgers and oven baking; baking is a little simpler, though it yields a less caramelized burger.
1 small sweet potato (about 6 ounces), peeled and chopped into ½-inch pieces
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ cup millet
½ cup cooked chickpeas (homemade; or canned, rinsed), smashed with a fork
About ¾ cup whole wheat bread crumbs
1 4-ounce can roasted green chiles (preferably Hatch New Mexico chiles; optional)
1 small shallot, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
¾ teaspoon onion powder
1 large egg
¼ cup cornmeal
Olive oil mister or nonstick pan spray
4 whole wheat burger buns, lightly toasted
Favorite burger toppings, such as raw onion, tomato slices, and lettuce
1Bring 1½ cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the sweet potato and ¾ teaspoon of the salt, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the millet and the chickpeas, reduce the heat to low, and cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until the millet is tender and absorbs all of the water, about 20 minutes (add more water, if needed). Turn off the heat and transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, letting it cool slightly.
2Stir in ½ cup of the bread crumbs, all the chiles (if using), the shallot, cumin, paprika, onion powder, and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Shape the mixture into 4 patties, pressing them so they are about ½ inch thick (they will be very soft). Place the patties on a plate and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3Lightly beat the egg in a medium bowl. In another medium bowl, stir together the remaining ¼ cup bread crumbs with the cornmeal. Place 1 chilled patty in the beaten egg, turning it over to coat the other side. Dip the patty in the cornmeal–bread crumb mixture, and sprinkle the mixture over the top of the patty, lightly pressing it on. Repeat with the remaining 3 patties.
4If you’re pan-searing the veggie burgers, heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Mist the skillet with olive oil or nonstick pan spray, then add the patties, cooking until they are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the patties (they will be somewhat soft) and cook on the other side until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes longer.
5If you’re baking the burgers, preheat the oven to 375°F. Generously mist an aluminum foil–lined baking sheet with spray. Bake the patties until they are browned, about 20 minutes, using a spatula to flip them midway through the baking. For an extra-browned crust, turn the oven to broil and move the patties to the top rack and broil for 30 seconds before serving.
6Serve each burger on a bun and with your favorite toppings.
PER SERVING: Calories 349 / Protein 11g / Dietary Fiber 8g / Sugars 5g / Total Fat 6g
SUPERMARKET STRATEGY
Pantry Veggie Burgers
If you can’t find millet at your market, don’t worry. In place of millet, use 1 cup of cooked quinoa, brown rice, or bulgur. And instead of the sweet potato, you can use any mashed, thick vegetable—plain canned pumpkin works great, as do mashed roasted carrots or puréed rutabaga.
Portobello Steak-Frites with Sweet Potatoes
PORTOBELLO STEAK-FRITES WITH SWEET POTATOES
SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME 40 minutes (plus 20 minutes to soak the mushrooms)
COOKING TIME 50 MINUTES
Eating steak-frites in Parisian cafés is one of my most delicious and treasured culinary memories of my time spent living abroad. In this vegetarian take on steak-frites, I replace the steak with succulent portobello mushrooms and the customary thin, crisp fries with oven-browned sweet potatoes. Steak-frites usually arrives tableside with a knob of shallot butter melting over the meat. As a nod to that tradition, I serve the vegetable composition with shallots crisped in a little olive oil instead.
2 medium sweet potatoes
2 tablespoons plus 2½ teaspoons olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
4 4- to 5-inch-wide portobello mushroom caps, cleaned
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1½ medium shallots, halved and thinly sliced
1Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and water. Use a knife to trim a long, thin slice off one side of each sweet potato (slice the piece lengthwise). Then turn the potato over and repeat on the other side, so each potato has two straight sides. Slice the potatoes lengthwise into ½-inch-thick planks, stack the planks, then slice lengthwise into ½-inch sticks. Add the sweet potato sticks to the ice water and set aside for 20 minutes.
2Whisk together 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, half the lemon juice, ½ teaspoon of the kosher salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper in a large, shallow dish. Brush the mushroom caps with the marinade, then place the caps rounded side down in the remaining marinade. Leave at room temperature to marinate for 20 minutes.
3Adjust an oven rack to the upper-middle position and preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Mix ½ teaspoon of the sea salt and the smoked paprika in a small bowl. Drain the potatoes, turn them out onto a cutting board, and pat them dry. Add the cornstarch to a resealable plastic bag along with the potatoes, seal the bag, and shake to coat the potatoes with the cornstarch.
4Turn the potatoes out onto the prepared baking sheet, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and use your hands to gently turn and toss the potatoes in the oil. Spread the sticks into a single layer, then sprinkle with the paprika salt and roast for 20 minutes. Use a spatula or tongs to turn the fries and continue to roast until lightly browned, about 15 minutes more.
5While the potatoes roast, heat a large oven-safe grill pan or skillet over high heat for about 2 minutes. Add ½ teaspoon of the olive oil and place the mushrooms rounded side down in the pan. Cook until grill marks form, 4 to 5 minutes, then transfer the pan to the oven and continue roasting until the mushrooms are browned and tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
6Add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil to a small skillet set over medium heat. Add the shallots, the remaining ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, and the remaining ½ teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring often, until the shallots soften and brown around the edges, 4 to 5 minutes. Set a portobello mushroom on each plate along with some fries. Drizzle each mushroom cap with some shallots and shallot oil, sprinkle with the remaining flaky sea salt, and serve.
PER SERVING: Calories 189 / Protein 3g / Dietary Fiber 3g / Sugars 8g / Total Fat 10g
KITCHEN STRATEGY
Do You Need to Salt Eggplant?
If you’re using Globe eggplants—the most common one you’ll see in the supermarket—people say you should always salt the sliced or chopped eggplant and let it sit for 20 minutes to draw out the bitterness that comes from the seeds. You know what? I never do this, and no one has ever turned down my Cheesy Eggplant Parm. If you are very sensitive to bitterness, try Chinese or Japanese eggplants, which have fewer seeds.
CHEESY EGGPLANT PARMESAN
SERVES 6 PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME 1 HOUR, 5 MINUTES
Just because a dish is vegetarian, that doesn’t mean it’s healthy. Case in point: eggplant Parmesan. Usually this classic Italian casserole is oozing with melted mozzarella and Parmesan cheese and is thickly stacked with breaded and panfried slices of eggplant. In my healthy version, the eggplant is pan-seared in a nonstick skillet without bread crumbs and then layered with low-fat cottage cheese and Parmesan.
Olive oil mister or nonstick pan spray
1 large or 2 small eggplants, sliced crosswise into ¾-inch-thick rounds
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1½ cups low-fat cottage cheese
1 large egg white
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 cups jarred low-sodium and low-fat or fat-free marinara sauce
½ cup shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese
1Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the skillet with olive oil or nonstick pan spray and add some of the eggplant slices (as many as will fit in a single layer). Season with some pepper and cook the eggplant until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Turn over the eggplant, sprinkle with some more pepper, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the eggplant is soft and cooked through, about 6 minutes longer. Repeat with the remaining eggplant slices and remaining pepper, adding more pan spray to the skillet as needed.
2Preheat the oven to 350°F. Use a food processor to pulse the cottage cheese until it is semi-smooth. Transfer the cottage cheese to a medium bowl and stir in the egg white and ¼ cup of the Parmesan cheese.
3Lightly coat a 3-quart baking dish with nonstick pan spray. Add half the eggplant slices. Top with the cottage cheese and the remaining eggplant slices, followed by the marinara sauce. Sprinkle with the mozzarella and then the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan cheese. Bake until hot and bubbling, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool the eggplant Parmesan for 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
PER SERVING: Calories 160 / Protein 15g / Dietary Fiber 3g / Sugars 7g / Total Fat 5g
BAKED FALAFEL WITH TANGY YOGURT SAUCE
SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME 30 MINUTES (plus 30 minutes to chill)
COOKING TIME 20 MINUTES
Made with chickpeas and a handful of fresh cilantro, Middle Eastern falafel has long been the vegetarian’s answer for a substantial meal. The problem is that falafel is almost always fried, meaning that all that goodness is buffered by the effects of deep frying. In this version, I bake the falafel patties on a wire rack so air circulates around them, eliminating the need to flip midbaking. Some frozen spinach gives them a vibrant color while adding iron and B vitamins, too.
FOR THE FALAFEL
1½ cups cooked chickpeas (homemade; or canned, rinsed)
2 scallions (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced
½ cup frozen chopped spinach, thawed, with extra liquid squeezed out
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 large egg white
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1 garlic clove, very finely chopped or pressed through a garlic press
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Splash of hot sauce (optional)
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup white whole wheat flour (or whole wheat pastry flour)
Olive oil mister or nonstick pan spray
FOR THE YOGURT SAUCE
½ medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and grated
¾ cup plain reduced-fat Greek yogurt
Juice of ½ lemon
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon olive oil
1To make the falafel: Use a food processor to pulse the chickpeas until they are roughly chopped, three or four 1-second pulses. Add the scallions, spinach, cilantro, egg white, lemon zest, garlic, coriander, cumin, cayenne, and hot sauce (if using), and pulse to combine. The mixture should be coarse without any large chunks, but not completely smooth.
2Transfer the chickpea mixture to a medium bowl and stir in the baking powder, salt, black pepper, and ¼ cup of the flour (the mixture should be very sticky but hold together when pressed—if too wet and loose, stir in 1 tablespoon of flour). Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3To make the yogurt sauce: Line a medium plate with a paper towel. Set the grated cucumber on the towel and blot the cucumber with another paper towel. Transfer the cucumber to a medium bowl and add the yogurt, lemon juice, garlic powder, salt, and pepper. Drizzle the olive oil over the top of the sauce.
4Preheat the oven to 400°F. Add the remaining ¼ cup flour to a large plate and use a ¼-cup measuring cup to scoop out the chickpea mixture from the bowl, making 8 mounds. Roll each mound in the flour, then gently press between your palms into a patty. Repeat with the remaining mixture for 8 patties total. Lightly mist both sides of each patty with olive oil or nonstick pan spray.
5Line a rimmed baking sheet with a baking rack and mist the baking rack with olive oil or nonstick pan spray. Set the patties on the rack and bake until they are golden and cooked through, about 20 minutes. Serve the falafel with the yogurt dipping sauce.
PER SERVING: Calories 226 / Protein 11g / Dietary Fiber 8g / Sugars 6g / Total Fat 4g
KITCHEN STRATEGY
Make-Ahead Falafel
Falafel is a great make-ahead option. Just bake them and freeze on a sheet pan until semi-hard, then transfer them to a freezer-safe resealable bag. Defrost in the oven or in the microwave and slide into a pita or serve with rice or couscous.